Review of eSkyGuide iPhone App

Feature photo by David Reber’s Hammer Photography

Associate Editor Michelle Schusterman reviews American Express Publishing’s flight info iPhone app.

The first impression was a good one. I admired his clean, simple look, his organization. He was so easy to read. I felt like we had a connection.

Then, like so many travel apps before him, he just shut down on me.

I gave him another chance, though – I’m a total sucker for good looking apps, after all. By another chance, I mean I deleted eSkyGuide from my iPhone, then uploaded it again. I’ve done this with the others. Chalk it up to nerves. They just can’t perform well the first time.

The main menu of the app is fairly self-explanatory; choose from flight schedules and statuses, the weather at a specific airport, locating an airport, or contact info for airports and hotels. You can search by flight number, departure/arrival info, date. The pieces are all there, but…I’m going to stop with the dating analogy now. You get the idea.

Honestly, the app does work about one in three attempts. The problem is that if I don’t get a message saying something is wrong, or if the app doesn’t just completely crash, then it takes so long to load I’m afraid it’s frozen. I did, for example, open the hotel contact list, but it took nearly a full minute to get there.

Based on layout and navigation alone, I’m sold. Along with departure and arrival times, flight duration and aircraft details, you even get meal info. But when loading takes so long even my iPhone goes to sleep, then I wake him only to read this message:

eSkyguide Encountered some problem. Please try again after

I have to wonder. After what? I’m not trying to be rude here, but I’m making an iPhone app myself, and I know details matter. As a customer, I’d be fairly annoyed about spending five bucks on an app that gives me this incomplete and unhelpful message.

The concept is here, the performance is not. I’d wait to see if any bugs are addressed in future updates before asking this one up for a nightcap.

Blood, Sweat and YouTube [Video]

How super-fans have perfected the art of the sport film.

Although I’m not really a spectator sports fan–I get bored and would rather be playing one instead of watching it on TV–I have a shameless love for sports films. I’ve seen Friday Night Lights at least 15 times, have chosen Glory Road on both legs of a European flight, and will always linger on TNT weekend showings of Remember the Titans. Don’t even get me started on The Cutting Edge.

When posed with the question of how my usual hockey headaches don’t afflict me when watching Miracle, my response is: “The adrenaline! The emotion!”

That is to say, why would I park myself on a sofa for hours when I can skip straight to the best moments of victory and defeat, chosen by very skilled editors (skills that also explain my inexplicable anger as the drama of stolen pea puree unfolded on Top Chef this season)?

I am not the only one that would like to cut out all the commercials, intermission shows, and ho-hum plays in typical games. ESPN SportsCenter has perfected the highlight reel, and some super-fans who own FilmCut Pro have scored and edited dramatized videos into pure art.

One of the best I found is by YouTube user simoanfield, whose editing of the Liverpool vs. AC-Milan 2005 Championships League Final gives me the same burning sensation in my tear ducts that the final scene in Rudy does.

Community Connection

Check out BNT’s recommendations for travel films (that aren’t really about travel).

5 of Ireland’s Best Beaches

Bundoran at sunset

Bundoran Beach / Photo: dusi_bbg

Robin Graham shatters drab Irish stereotypes and introduces 5 beaches that are among Europe’s best, all of them in the southwest of County Donegal.
1. Bundoran Beach

Surfers know beaches, and the world championships were held at Bundoran in ‘97. Since then, this little town has played host to a number of other high-profile tournaments.

They come for The Peak, one of Europe’s best waves, and the locals will be only too pleased to tell you about its “nice clean barrel” and “steep, steep drop-in.”

No, I don’t understand either. But the beach itself is a real beauty, stretching for over 2km, and surfing is not compulsory.

Getting there: Leave the N15 at Bundoran and drive through town following the coast road to the signposted beach.

Photo: Sandhouse Hotel

2. Rossnowlagh Beach

Also known as the Heavenly Cove, this is a little farther up the coast and is another destination for surfers. If you’re not exactly world-class material you might prefer it here, where you won’t be lining up beside the best of the best for a crack at The Peak.

Wind-surfing, kite-surfing, and of course swimming are also popular, and the beach is well served with a surf club, a lifeguard station, and a bar in the nearby Sandhouse Hotel. You can also take your car right onto the sand, though the speed limit down there is 15km/h for obvious reasons.

A lot of people come during the summer months, but at the same time it’s hidden away and you could easily pass by without knowing it. When I was driving in, I passed a shop who’s owners felt the need to advertise “open all year,” and a tiny brown church made entirely from corrugated iron.

Getting there: Leave Bundoran on the N15 northbound, and after approx. 5km take the R231 at Ballyshannon. The beach is signed after another 9km or so.

3. Murvagh Beach

Okay, you’ve gotten away from all those surfers.

Even though we’re in the northwest of Ireland here, the water at Murvagh Beach is probably the warmest anywhere in the country during the summer months, as the tide has to come in over a kilometer of shallow sandbanks, giving the sun plenty of time to do its work.

This also makes it an ideal beach for children, with swimming for adults being limited to an hour or so each side of the tide.

Fintragh Beach, Ireland

Photo: nicksarebi

The beach is approached through some beautiful woodland, and the dunes inland are designated a Special Area of Conservation.

Getting there: Rejoin the N15 at Ballintra. Head north. After about 3km, turn left at the sign for Donegal Golf Club. Continue to the next T-junction and turn left, and then after approx. 1km you’ll see a sign for Murvagh Forest Park. Turn right into the park to reach the beach car park.

4. Fintragh Beach

You’ll be sick of the sight of Blue Flags by the time you drive down the horribly, horribly steep hill to Fintragh Beach. Rocky outcrops stud this otherwise smooth strand. Not a surfer in sight.

Actually, there was no one of any kind in sight when I arrived. Only some little bunnies, hopping about on the grassy slopes behind the sand. It’s a hard place to leave, and I spent much longer than I meant to.

Getting there: Leave Killybegs heading west on the Fintragh Road. After approx. 2km, turn left where the beach is signposted.

5. The Silver Strand

This is the only one of the five not to have Blue Flag status, which is ironic, because in my opinion it’s the best of the lot.

Silver Strand, Donegal

Photo: michaelheinzkelleners

Not a beach for watersports; it’s a hidden little cove that makes me think more of brochures for the Greek Islands, only with sheep photoshopped in.

Hundreds of stone steps lead down a steep drop to a horseshoe-shaped strand, surrounded by a crescent of eroded cliffs and caves. The turquoise water is clear and most certainly not Greek in temperature.

Getting there: Follow the coast road around the southwest Donegal peninsula. Take a left where Malin Bheg is signposted and keep going for about 10 minutes. You’ll see signs for The Silver Strand.

Community Connection

More beach action from Matador:

10 Traveler’s Tips For Rocking A Nudist Beach
Photo Essay: 7 Beautifully Bizarre Beaches
World’s Best Beaches: Which Ones Make Your List?

Panhandlers: Where Does Your Spare Change Go?

What gives? pacificpelican

Why are we so obsessed with how homeless people spend the money we give them?

I recently read How Panhandlers Use Free Credit Cards in The Star, and while I imagine that the writer, Jim Rankin, has his heart in the right place, I can’t help but bristle at the idea that the question is being asked and is so important to those that might drop a few quarters into the palm of a citizen sitting on the sidewalk, begging for change.

Aside from the fact that the article gave spare changers pre-paid credit cards (which we could assume are limited in their drug buying capabilities, but only in a roundabout way), the question of where your money goes when you give it to an obviously needy person is kind of sickening. 

Photo: Tony the Misfit

I’m not attacking Rankin. This is a question people are obviously keen to know the answer to. It’s a sentiment you hear often. “I would give money to bums, but they’d probably spend it on drugs or alcohol.”

In the context of the article, the people given the credit cards knew their purchases would be reviewed. We can assume their purchases were edited accordingly. One woman even felt compelled to apologize for having spent the money on cigarettes. The fact that she felt this way and that Rankin also seemed to think it was something that implied an excuse was necessary shows the writer is on board with the perception that if we give, we should also be cognizant of what the money we give is spent on.

Why?

About a year ago, I attended a cultural awareness seminar at the South American Explorers Club. I found the course enjoyable, but at one point, the topic of how people might spend the money they earned panhandling came up.

One clean scrubbed, bright eyed, overprivileged twenty-something brought up how she didn’t like giving money to homeless people because “they could spend it on anything.” In the audio version of this story, this is where you here the needle scratch right across the record.

This wasn’t the first time I had heard this line of logic. But it was the first time I let loose a cascade of words in incredulous sequence.

“Why is it your business how they might spend the money you give them?”

“Because they could spend it on drugs.”

“Well, if they do, they need those drugs more than you need your two pesos. Don’t they?”

I’m not sure how this conversation ended. I probably scared the poor girl and half the room with my outraged argument. But in the stark light of have and have not conspicuous in every large city the world over, what purpose does this question serve?

This is what I would ask her if I had the chance to do it all over again.

Where does most of the money you spend on a cup of coffee at the Starbucks go?

Advertising, construction, polluting paper cups. Even a company that supports fair trade is doing its share of damage.

When you shop at Ambercrombie and Fitch, where do you suppose that money goes?

Sweat shop labor, ads, promoting an impossible beauty standard, and blasting shoppers ears with payola.

The real answer is that you don’t know and you don’t really care. You spend the money because you perceive that money going towards a good or service that you want and the real endpoint of that money is invisible to you.

But that doesn’t even come close to making the point.

What do you suppose panhandling costs the person doing it? It’s a job. Maybe it’s not a job with any discernible purpose, but is it less harmful than working at McDonalds and contributing to deforestation, the pollution of the water supply and chipping away at the collective health of a nation? I would argue that it is.

Photo: en.en

Panhandling is demeaning job in the grand scheme of things. If the person panhandling is living on the street, that means he is in search every day for a safe place to sleep, something to eat, dry clothes and a shower. If a person is homeless, that person has likely spent a less than restless night sleeping on a surface you wouldn’t set your purse down on.

He feels like shit, is probably in pain and less than ideal health and his diet is a mish-mash of whatever he can get his hands on. Finding a place to take a dump is a problem. Can you imagine what that’s like on a day to day basis?

Then he gets to spend all day on another hard surface asking stone faced strangers who would prefer not to acknowledge him for spare change.

Who are you to place a value judgement on what he buys? If someone is subjected to all these hardships and chooses to buy alcohol or speed, he obviously needs the speed more than he needs your judgement. And every dollar you give to a drug addict is a dollar that person is not going to steal from your lilly white ass while you walk by him with your head up it.

If you give money to a panhandler, you can know one thing for certain. The person you’re giving your money to is the one who’s going to use it. For nourishment, a clean pair of socks, or to shoot up, your charity is going directly to the source. 

What other form of charity is as pure as that? There’s no processing fee, no one in a rented office getting their not-for-profit-ass paid, no transportation cost, and most importantly, there is no one making decisions about the most responsible way to spend the money on his behalf. You are giving a little money that you won’t miss to someone who needs it. That’s it.

Vetting charity is for organizations. Spare change is for busses, parking meters, tip jars and people on the street who need it.

That’s what I would say to her if I had the chance to do it over again.

Community Connection

Find out where travelers are most hassled in World’s Most Annoying Cities and the comments field where those with change to give compete for the most annoying beggars in the US and throw your two cents in.

Or if you’re more interested in participating in freeganomics, pop in at BNT where you can learn to live off the good stuff that finds its way to the trash in Dumpster Diving: The Easiest Way to Find Food.

10 Reasons I Had to Escape, STAT

Photo: Sam Judson

I need to get out, and I need to get out now.

By the time you read this, I’ll be (fingers crossed) fully entrenched in Burning Man bliss, hanging out with the likes of Matador Editors Leigh Shulman, Ian MacKenzie, and Ross Borden, along with some of my favorite San Francisco peeps.

I will be without my computer for a whole entire two weeks for the first time since 2007. And then it was only a week. Jesus, that’s sad.

But as I’m sure many of you travel bloggers can relate, it’s hard to take vacations from the computer. The same trips people take to get away from their desk are the ones where you take your desk with you. What pays the bills for those trips is your writing, that in the fast-paced world of the interwebz, MUST BE DAILY.

At moments I think, have I just traded in one chain for another? Am I spouting to others that they should balance mind, body, and spirit while I spend 10 hours a day typing a way? What the hell is going on here?

No one else is gonna say, “Don’t bring that beautiful and oh-so-tempting MacBook with its pearly-white keys and come-hither apple logo with you on vacation.”

Then I realize that I must be better about putting my own foot down – for myself – because no one else is gonna say, “Don’t bring that beautiful and oh-so-tempting MacBook with its pearly-white keys and come-hither apple logo with you on vacation.” Although I do hear some people calling Facebook the devil, I rarely see them close their account (or if they do, they come back after a month or two). And Twitter…oh god, I still don’t get it.

Point is, I need a break. I’ve been feeling overwhelmed – and under-motivated – for weeks now. Hence the big last minute decision to go to Burning Man.

Without further dribble, here are the ten reasons I had to escape, STAT:

Me, happy to be getting the HELL OUT

1. My iPhone got stolen, my computer went down, and my house’s internet didn’t work for four weeks. Signs from above (or below), anyone?

2. I’m not sure I know what the hell everyone is talking about when they say it’s been a horrendously hot summer. That’s because the inside of four walls has seen me much more than the outside. I expect Burning Man to make up for this disconnect. Just a hunch.

3. I curse any email that dares to find its way into my inbox(es). That’s a LOT of cursing every single day.

4. I know more about my friends lives through email, Facebook, and their blogs than I do talking to them in person. NOT ok, no matter how much I defend it to myself.

5. Everyday, I promise I will go to yoga class, for a walk, or make it to dance, and with the exception of dance, I often fail. This is because I have “so much work to do” and can’t pry my grubby little hands off the computer for two friggin’ hours. NOT acceptable. Am over it.

6. My ability to meditate has quickly waned. It is a skill that has to be practiced. Sure it helps to calm the mind, but the less you do it, the more it takes to calm those annoying loud thoughts. And therefore I give up quicker, sighing that tomorrow will be better. Am instituting 30 minutes a day of meditation for the next couple of weeks.

7. I have not been on a date in a couple of months. Ok, that’s not that strange for me. But I thought it was worth throwing in.

8. My inspiration consists of credit card and student loan demons banging down my door and breaking the windows to get the first whack at my blood. Uh…no.

9. Even though my breakup was at the beginning of the summer, everyone else I know has had relationship-meltdown this summer. I can only lend a helpful ear but for so long. I’m now pathetically just nodding my head, even when I’m on the phone. READ: not helpful.

10. All I want to do is find a sugga daddy (or momma) and lounge on the porch, drinking bottles of two buck Chuck and yelling at the dogs to “shuddup already!” all day. Um, this has never been my dream, and I’m kinda scared it came out of my typing fingers.

Adios!

Share your reasons for needing an escape in the comments below.

Your Ashes on Wax: AndVinyly Is Putting the Fun Back in Funeral

Photo Mashup CC by Kate Sedgwick from record photo by seventime and skull photo by BenedictFrancis, also used as feature photo

Hey, it’s your funeral.

And when you consider the average cost of one these days, the price seems almost reasonable.

It’s now possible to have your ashes imbedded in a record after you die.

If you would like to be buried, there’s no reason you can’t opt to have part of your body cremated to undergo the process, according to the AndVinyly website. All I imagine you would have to do is find a mortician willing to dismember a portion of your corpse and cremate it separately. That couldn’t be much of a problem, could it?

The process is not only reserved for human beings. Be it your hamster or your schnauzer, your pet is also eligible to be memorialized forever in vinyl.

Cremation (and possibly dismemberment) costs aside, the £2000 ($3,080 US) price tag includes:

*Your ashes pressed into the vinyl surface of up to 30 records of up to 12 minutes per side (24 minutes total).

*A record cover with “standard R.I.V. artwork” (‘Rest in Vinyl’ in case you were wondering, which from the looks of things is a black cover with your name and birth and death dates on a black sleeve in Minion Pro font).

You supply the audio and the ashes, and AndVinyly does the rest.

And they offer extras in spades.

Custom Tracks

If pressing a meaningful song from your life, the revving engine of your Prius (so close to silent), or the popping of an empty disc in a room full of grieving relatives isn’t unique enough for you, you can get the electronic musicians of The House of Fix or Daftwerk to take direction from you or simply press off one of their already existing songs (which can be heard at the website if you happen to select a track that works) for a mere £500 per track.

So if you feel concerned that your wake and funeral won’t call back memories of black painted plywood, the smell of smoke and Red Bull and the sound of a strange teenager coming to stark reality from a K-hole with a series of mind melting shrieks that overpower the throbbing monotony of the bass line and your dangerously dipping ecstasy buzz, you can ensure that those in the know will be taken back with vivid clarity to those halcion days with the drop of a needle on your dead, dead body.

Portrait Painting

For the price of £3,500 ($5,402 US) per painting, you could have your portrait painted by none other than the illustrious National Portrait Gallery painter James Hague.

This, of course, does not include (if you have the foresight to have the painting done while you’re still alive) the cost of sitting for the painter (£300/$463 US per hour) or the printing of the 30 record sleeves (£500/$772US, for which they generously include the printing of the labels).

Add a Sonic Template as a Backing Track

This could be you!

Should you perhaps be unable to find a friend to run your final salutation through Garage Band to add a “sonic template” behind your recorded voice, AndVinyly will gladly mix in “predertmined backing tracks to spice up your vocal recording eg. ambient, classical, electro, haunting, celebration, reggae, rock, punk, space, 1960’s/70’s etc.” that last 3 minutes each for the entirely reasonable cost of £250 ($386 US).

Why not Make an Event out of it?

If, for any reason, you would prefer to have your funeral “event” hosted by a “team of experienced event organisers” rather than your closest family and friends who, let’s face it, will probably be too sad to spin you in style, the starting price of a so called FUNeral is £10,000 ($15,434 US).

The haunted eyes of a club kid named Neltron can come to startling life as her buzz kicks in and she gets the party started right for those you’ve left behind in a venue they have had to hunt down in a warehouse district with cryptic fliers and no listed address. By the time your mom gets there, it will all be over, a final ‘Fuck you, I’ll come home when I bloody well want to! And that’s never!’ ringing forever in her ears.

Community Connection

Vinyl isn’t the only way to go. 10 Extraordinary Burial Ceremonies From Around the World presents the Skull Burial from Kiribati, and the Predator Burial of the Maasai Tribe of East Africa.

Also on BNT: A Traveler’s Guide to the History of Death.

Hiking the Great Wall from Beijing – Jinshanling to Simatai

It has been said that if you haven’t been to Walk the Great Wall of China, then you have not truly been to China. Hiking the Great Wall should be on the “to-do” list of every traveler. It’s a truly rewarding experience that does not disappoint.

One of the best places to explore the Great Wall is from Beijing, as there are many sections of the wall one can easily get to in a day-trip from the city. The most popular section of the wall to visit is Badaling. It was the first section of the wall opened to tourists and is located only 70km from Beijing. However, the section has been heavily restored, and has been reported as being very commercialized and crowded. Regardless of the crowds and commercialization, it’s still the Great Wall.

Walk the Great Wall of China

Getting Some Fresh Air

A less popular section of the wall is the focus of this article, the Jinshanling and Simatai sections of the wall.

Jinshanling is one of the best preserved parts of the Great Wall with many of its original features still intact. Simatai is also well preserved and because of its steepness offers amazing photo opportunities. They are both fairly close to Beijing and typically not crowded. The best way to experience these sections to walk the Great Wall of China from Jinshanling to Simatai.

 Walk the Great Wall of China

The hike between Jinshanling and Simatai is about 10.5km. If you’re of average fitness level, take a good amount of pictures and a lunch break, the hike should take about 5 hours. There are numerous tour companies offering this hike as part of a tour, and your hotel/hostel could probably arrange a trip as well, but why pay the extra money when you can do the hike easily on your own for less money.

Getting to Jinshanling

Start your day early and plan on this being an entire day’s activity. You’ll start at the Dongzhimen Long Distance Bus Station (??????) – on Subway lines 2 & 13. I’d recommend trying to get to the bus station by 8:00AM (if not earlier).

Bus No. 980 is the bus you will take to and from Beijing. The bus drops you off in Miyun County and the fare is 15RMB.

Warning: You may be the only person on the bus that gets off at the Miyun County stop. When I went, I was. It feels wrong, but this was the correct stop.

Once at Miyun, you can hire a taxi to bring you to the foot of Jinshanling. The price should be around 50-100RMB per car. If the price is much higher than this, please respectfully bargain.

Bargaining tip: If they’re recommending a large (unnecessary) van, see if they’ll take you in a smaller car for less.

Walk the Great Wall of China

Admission Fees

Because you will actually be hiking through 2 different sections of the wall, you’ll need to pay admission fees for both Jinshanling and Simatai.

Jinshanling admission fee: 50RMB (Mar. 15 – Nov. 15); 40RM (Nov. 16 – Mar. 14)
Simatai admission fee: 40RMB

Upon arriving at Jinshanling via taxi, you’ll pay the admission fee immediately. The Simatai ticket, however, will be paid during the middle of the hike. You won’t realize you’re entering a new section, you’ll just suddenly be confronted with a person selling tickets. This is normal and not someone trying to rip you off ;-) .

The Hike

 Walk the Great Wall of China

Walking the Great Walk of China is gorgeous and full of innumerable amounts of photo opportunities. When you first step on to the wall, it will be difficult to put down your camera — try though, as you’ve got a long hike ahead! There will be plenty of great photo opportunities ahead.

The hike offers varied terrain. There will be a little bit of climbing at some points, walking over loose gravel, as well as through parts that have been completely restored. There will also be some serious uphill and downhill as well. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes!

Towards the end of the hike, you’ll reach a beautiful green reservoir. You’ll need to cross a bridge over the reservoir, which will cost another 5RMB per person. This is the beginning of the east section of Simatai.

Completing the Hike

Walk the Great Wall of China

Once you’ve crossed the bridge and entered the east section of Simatai, it’s time to begin thinking about how to get down to the Simatai parking lot.

Option 1: After crossing the reservoir, you’ll arrive to the 2nd watchtower. There, you’ll find a footpath back to the parking lot. This is the least expensive (but most tiresome) option.

Option 2: Also from the 2nd watchtower, there’s an exciting zip-line down to the parking lot. The zip-line runs 35RMB per person.

Option 3: If you’re up for it, you can continue climbing to the 8th watchtower after the reservoir, where there is a cable car to take you down to the parking lot. The cable car will cost 30RMB per person.

Option 4: If you’re really still full of energy, after reaching the 8th watchtower, you can climb 4 more watchtowers. However, there’s no way to get down to the parking lot from the 12th watchtower, so you’ll need to return back to the 8th watchtower and take the cable car.

Getting Back to Beijing

Once arriving to the Simatai parking lot, you can again hire a taxi back to Miyun county. The price should be around 50-100RMB per car again. Remember to politely bargain to reach a reasonable price.

Once back to Miyun county, you can finally relax on the same bus no. 980 back to Beijing’s Dongzhimen Long Distance bus station. Again the fare will be 15RMB to return.

Other Tips

  • If neither of these sections seem interesting to you, you may also want to check out Juyongguan and Mutianyu. Both sections are also close enough to Beijing to see in a day-trip.
  • Bring a backpack and pack it with water and snacks. The wall is deserted at most points and there are not many opportunities to buy food and water.

Final note: Just to set the argument straight, no you cannot see the Great Wall from space.

Note from the Editor: Reports are conflicting on whether portions of the hike mentioned here are open. Regardless of your chosen route, be sure to check with your travel agent, tour guide or local accommodation to confirm your plans before setting out to walk the Great Wall of China.

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Letters from Thailand

WHAT/WHERE
Capturing the vivacity and camaraderie of time spent working in a Thai orphanage.

NETWORK CONNECTION

An incredible short film supposedly compiled with scraps from the cutting room floor; I can’t imagine what the highlight reel must look like. In the town of Phang Nga in southern Thailand, an orphanage houses or employs these character-rich faces. With a definite scratchy, distorted, Tarantino effect layering its entirety, the storyteller makes a beautiful representation of his time aiding this orphanage that would intrigue even the least altruistic viewer. In this video, Thailand and its residents beam.

VIDEO CREATED BY

Andinh

Photo Essay: A Tribute to Cold-Water Surfing

A photographic guide to well-known and less-appreciated cold-water surf spots around the world.

The beginning of the Atlantic hurricane season means a couple of things to surfers on the U.S. East Coast. One is the excitement of warm groundswells that people have been waiting for all year, and the other is the bittersweet knowledge that wetsuit season is just around the saltwater bend.

At the same time, the 20-minute struggle to peel off soaking neoprene with spaghetti arms is way more hardcore than a 3-hour session in tropical climes.

So keep your coral reef breaks, and hold the zinc oxide. Here we present some of the many, and some lesser-appreciated, cold water spots around the world that demonstrate that one’s love for surfing can transcend the thermometer.

1. New Jersey
First, a shout-out to my home turf: the New Jersey shore, more specifically Long Beach Island. There are many more pluses to this part of the mid-Atlantic than MTV allows, but that’s cool. We’d rather keep our beaches free of bar fights and tramp stamps and measure a man’s strength by the art of his cutback versus the cut of his abs. Check out the new hi-def film Darkfall for more on Jersey surf.

Image by Todd Binger

2. Chile
Considering the length of its coastline, the brutal water temperatures of the Pacific, and the relatively sparse population, uncrowded line-ups are ripe for the picking in Chile, but only for those not faint of heart. Pictured is the central beach town of Pichilemu, where the year-round temperature hovers around 13?C/55?F.

Image by Christian Cordova

3. South Africa
The Atlantic frigidity running from windswept Cape Town to points west will forever provide the mother of all cold water breaks (unlike those embraced by Durban’s Indian Ocean to the east). While the world-class drops at Dungeons bring in international talent, young Saffers need to start somewhere less intimidating. They break them in early to deal with temperatures that range from 10?C/50?F to 15?C/60?F.

Image by Xavi Talleda

4. Northern California
South Africa has Dungeons, and the United States has Mavericks. On top of the hair-raising paddle out or the poop-inducing fear when you realize you’re in over your head (true stories overheard), try wearing a 5mm suit while avoiding Great Whites and the jagged boulders at the end of the ride. Mavericks helped make surfing a spectator sport for this reason.

Image by jurvetson

5. Central & Southern California
Not to be outdone by their Northern neighbors in terms of temperature, Southern Californians also weather the Pacific’s wintery wrath. For some reason, non-West Coasters often equate California surf culture with Gidget and bikinis. Obviously they’ve never been to Cardiff in October. Pictured is Morro Rock, about 90 miles north of Santa Barbara.

Image by Mike Baird

6. Iceland
Word has unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on who you talk to) gotten out about the new darling of the cold water surf world. Supernatural landscapes combined with unsurprisingly sparse line-ups plus a weakened currency make it a fairly appetizing spot for those who don’t mind bobbing around in the Celtic Sea.

Image by dalli58

7. Lake Ontario, New York
Surfing’s Biggest Fan Award goes to this lone dude paddling out into a snow-laced Lake Ontario to ride some windswell. Considering the fact that the lake’s temperature doesn’t budge much from 4?C/39?F, this guy is the real deal.

Image by rengel134

8. Ireland
Nudged along by The Malloy Brothers in the well-known surf flick Step into Liquid, Ireland’s reputation for perfectly formed Atlantic waves is sealed. Between the popular breaks at Lanhinch, pictured, and the big waves of Mullaghmore, Irish surfing makes for a great road trip.

Image by rengel134

9. Portugal
Portugal has a deceptively cold coastline considering its association with the Mediterranean. The waves from Ericeira to the Algarve are saturated with color and, as with all the beach breaks, really fast. They are also competition-worthy, and only the truly brave go in with less than a 4mm suit on, even in the summer. (And while this is a bodyboarder, note that temperature, unlike surfers, does not discriminate.)

Image by Pedro Simoes

10. England
The craggy coast of England’s North Sea lends itself well to a variety of breaks, although the water temperature can go as low as 6°C/43°F. For surfers not looking to travel west to Ireland, there are plenty of alternatives in North Yorkshire.

Image by Allan Harris

11. Vancouver Island, Canada
The open coast of Vancouver Island, BC, Canada is enticing for various reasons. Add the mixture of rock reefs and the storm swells originating from the Gulf of Alaska, and surfers get pure, cold Pacific beauty. It’s probably the closest, aesthetics-wise, that cold-water surfing gets to Hawaii.

Image by Pat Ong

12. Germany
When the only other alternative to their landlocked city is the generally flat beach of Sylt, Munich surfers will wait their turn for a ride on the manmade river wave at Eisbach, or “Ice Creek.” The name says it all–water temperatures range from 1?C/34?F to 8?C/46?F–so wetsuits are required year-round, but at least post-session meals of currywurst and schnitzel are heartier than typical beach eats.

Image by Rand Will

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Feature image by Caitlin Childs

Photo Essay: Songs of Memory

Victoria Vorreiter shares the results of five years trekking in Southeast Asia’s Golden Triangle.

The Golden Triangle — the mountainous expanse where Thailand, Myanmar/Burma, and Laos converge — is home to over 130 different ethnic groups and subgroups. The region remains one of the most culturally diverse places on the planet, with each community representing differing worlds, each unique in their histories, languages, customs, arts, beliefs, and dress.

These are animistic societies, rooted in oral culture. With no written record, their beliefs are imprinted in the memories of those who continue to live them. Songs, ceremonies, and stories then become the chronicles and oracles of traditional ways of life. Yet the advance of globalization and the rush to modernity entice young people to forego the ways of their ancestors. Should one generation fail to pass on what it knows to the next, thousands of years of accumulated knowledge will die with little trace within a few decades.

Victoria Vorreiter — an American filmmaker and musician — was compelled to move to the area to witness these communities where music continues to play a primal role in guiding people in their lives, connecting them to their first ancestors and the spirits that animate their world. Since 2005 she has traveled throughout the region to document their traditional songs and ceremonies in an attempt to honor and preserve them before they vanish. To learn more about her project, visit her website Tribal Music Asia.

The Golden Triangle

1. The rugged — and, in some places, impenetrable — mountains, river valleys, and forests have formed natural barriers that make for rough-going terrain. This is home to some of the world’s oldest civilizations.

Harvesting rice

2. During the harvest season, fields in northeast Myanmar are dotted in bright red, as Palaung families gather their rice crop. Here, a 15-year-old girl separates the chaff by slapping each bundle from on high. As she is of marriageable age, she is dressed in her most colorful clothing to attract a mate wherever and whenever the occasion arises.

Shepherding cattle

3. An Akha Mu La woman shepherds her cattle at day’s end along a winding path to her village in the Shan State of Myanmar. Dressed entirely in indigo from headdress to leggings, she switches a long tree branch and shushes the stragglers, just as her ancestors have done long before her.

Fabricating clothes

4. Following the traditional lifestyle of their ancestors, girls learn from an early age the steps of clothing fabrication from their mothers and grandmothers — from growing cotton, ginning, carding, rolling, spinning, winding, weaving, dyeing, to embroidering and adorning their textiles. Every garment is a demonstration of skill, love, and creativity that protects and identifies the wearer. Here, a Hmong Tsai (Striped) elder unravels hemp fibers she has spun on a massive wheel in her mountaintop village in Phongsali Province, in the northeastern corner of Laos.

Wedding celebration

5. A large celebration was taking place with prayers, feasting, and singing near Muang Sing, Laos, when I stopped to visit. It was the wedding day of Pelia, aged 18, and his bride, Mipia, aged 19, who was already several months pregnant with their first-born. In Akha Puli Hulai tradition, the boy’s ceremonial headdress is as imposing and magnificent as that of the girls, and can reach one tier higher than this one shown, measuring up to 13 inches.

In the next page, Victoria is lucky to witness a festival occurring only once every 15 years…